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Nov. 14/00
TRIFLE IS NOT generally considered culinary art, but something trivial, quick and easy. But as a child I considered it Nectar of the Gods: I still do. But first, what is it? According to English tradition, trifle is a dessert of sponge cake, soaked in wine, covered in macaroons, nuts and whipped cream, etc. ( In this case etc is very important) The word "Trifle" derives from the Old French word truffle.....meaning.... mockery. Now that is very odd, and probable derives from the keen misunderstanding between the English and the French about what is food, and what isn't. (The French usually win). In this case either the French called the English dessert a mockery (of culinary art?) or the English wanted to anger the French by jesting about little black fungi (very bad idea), or the English stole the dessert and mispronounced the name ( very likely). So while they sort it out lets get to the point: actually the word in French for that adorable fungus is truffe, no l. As you know, these days a truffle is no trifle. If it is, you were truffléed ... by either a Frenchman or an Italian, and for once the English had nothing to do with it (the bad truffles) except that they may have invented the dessert and trifled with truffle. At this point I decided to call my Mom, who not only brought me into the world in Paris, but almost immediately took me to tribal Africa, where she introduced me to trifle (with no wine) at a very young age and thankfully scrambled my ethnic identity forever. (Truffles I had to discover on my own, much later) I have a perfect memory of a trifle she made over 40 years ago. Topped with whipped cream, bananas, shaved chocolate and tiny silver sugar balls. The merging of pound cake, and custard, and cream is any child's idea of bliss; the chocolate hints and banana whispers only increased the shock of awareness of Divinity. Mom was a bit surprised at my question about such a "mundane" dish, yet I was pleased with her answer. First she has no recipe for trifle, any more than her Mom had a written recipe for biscuits. You just make them. In the case of trifle its much easier than biscuits. Take day old pound cake, or any other cake you have on hand and like. Slice and layer the cake in the bottom of a large bowl. Make a sweet egg custard (my mother mentioned custard powder, which I had never noticed as a child, but a little extra work with fresh eggs yolks, sugar, double boiler, and cream are worth the effort). Pour some of the egg custard over the cake layer. Then layer with sliced fruit in season. For us it was usually banana. Repeat the layers until you are near the top of the bowl. Whip up some sweetened cream and spread it on top. Decorate with fruit, cocoa powder, shaved chocolate and chill for a few hours. Of course in today's elaborate and elevated culinary world such a humble dish has to be kicked up a (oh never mind!!). I was a bit skeptical when my souschef and business partner Larry offered to make his version of "trifle". One look at the recipe and I knew this was no mere trifle. However it is true to form: cake, liqueur, fruit, custard- cake, liqueur, fruit, custard and the etc. After many hours of loving care Larry presented a trifle to beat all trifles. In a large crystal bowl, layers of pound cake immersed in Grand Marnier and chocolate mousse, thick festive bands of cranberry and candied ginger compote, topped with whipped cream and more cranberry. A stunning holiday dessert for the eye and palate. As usual he made enough for a small army. When the small army arrived they polished off as much as they could, and left the rest for me, (and Larry). Nectarious! Just like the five year old, all over again. So if you want to taste trifle as a high culinary treat follow the recipe below (or call Larry and he'll make it for you). If you want to invent your own comfort dessert, start with my Mom's. For only one who tastes knows when a Trifle is no truffle. Next: On to Tiramisu: layers of lady fingers soaked in coffee liqueur layered with egg custard and topped with whipped cream and shaved bittersweet chocolate and cocoa. Sound familiar? "Oh, its just a trifle." Now, as I wander the origins of tartufi........ Here is the recipe for Chocolate Cranberry & Ginger Trifle.
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